Wild Game Blog

There are few things that compare with standing around an open fire waiting for the nourishment that brings us all together. We have certainly refined that scenario over the years but that deep appreciation remains the same.

May all your summer gatherings be full of just that Appreciation!

Here are some of my favorite summertime combinations of flavor. They may not be “wild” as we know it but the draw of the fire is enough to bring out the savage in all of us.

WILDEATS BABY BACK RIBS
9 slabs of pork baby back ribs

BBQ rub blend-
1 cup of SF Pepper Rub
1 cup Controlled Burn Chili Blend
½ cup coarse sea salt

Steaming ingredient-
3-4 bottle Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (or your favorite hearty beer)

Rub the ribs on both sides and lay them out on a parchment lined half sheet pan and leave them in the frig. overnight. The next day pour enough Sierra Nevada Pale Ale to cover the bottom of the pan and cover the ribs with parchment and foil.

Placed them into a 275° F oven for about 2 hours or until they are about 75% done.

Remove them from the oven and either cool them down to be finished later or transfer them to a BBQ that has glowing mesquite coals. Place the rack far enough away from the fire to get a good slow roasting. Continue to rotate the ribs until they are tender.
(I also like to cold smoke them over hickory if I have time.) Then baste them with The Wildeats Ancho Chili bbq sauce. Recipe to follow. (Or your own favorite summertime bathing liquid)

The trick with cooking ribs is to cook them long enough to be tender and full of the smoky goodness that comes from being cooked over a natural fire without over cooking them so they aren’t falling apart. As with any meat always allow them to rest a bit before cutting.

WILDEATS Ancho Chili BBQ sauce

First stage-

2 med yellow onions, cut into small dice
2 tbs[ minced fresh garlic
½ cup minced fresh ginger
1 tbsp fennel seeds
¼ c pure olive oil

Second stage-

1 c orange juice
1/2 cup honey
1 c rice or cider vinegar

Third stage -

1 #10 (6 lbs 6 oz.) can ketchup (or about 8 - 14 oz. bottles- If your going to make your own BBQ sauce might as well make it worth your time )
1 qt. ancho chili coulis
salt and pepper to taste

Final stage-

1 cup virgin olive oil
1 ½ tbsp dried English mustard

In a non corrosive pot (stainless steel) sauté the items in the first stage. After slightly wilted deglaze with the liquids in the second stage, continually stir the bottom so the sauce doesn’t scorch. To this add the ketchup and chili product. Continue to stir. Turn the heat down to a slow simmer and cover. Allow to simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour, stir as it simmers. If you are using whole chilies (instead of a prepared chili coulis you may have to cook a little further). At this point you should have a sauce that has a good balance of acid and sweetness with a slight touch of earthy heat from the chilies.

Remove the sauce from the stove and allow to cool slightly. When the sauce is cooled a bit you can begin to process it in a food blender. Do this in small batches and add a little of the dried mustard and olive oil as you process the sauce. As you remove the processed sauce from the blender pass it through a strainer to remove any seeds, bits and pieces of vegetables, etc. Adjust with salt and pepper and any additional honey or vinegar to suit your taste.

Once cooled completely, cover and store in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Ancho Chili Coulis

Yields apr 1- 1 1/2 qts. finished product

This can be added at the beginning of the bbq sauce as components or added as a finished product. It’s a great condiment to have stored in the frig. and last for several weeks under refrigeration.

15 ancho chilis , toasted in a 350°F oven for a couple of minutes. Remove the stem and the seeds.
1 yellow onion diced
6 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tbsp freshly ground cumin (toasted)
1/2 tbsp dried oregano
1/4 c lemon juice
1/2 gal water

* for an added burst of flavor you can add ½ cup of WildEats Controlled Burn Chili Blend and Rub

½ cup virgin olive oil

Place all the ingredients except the olive oil in a non corrosive sauce pot. Cover and bring to a simmer. Remove the cover and continue to simmer for about 20 minutes. Allow the sauce to cool before you process it in a blender. While the mixture is blending slowly pour the oil in. Once blended smooth, pass it through a strainer. Adjust the seasonings, cool and store in an airtight container. Store for at least two weeks in the refrigeration. Use as a flavor enhancement to dishes or paint on plates for presentation. This may soon replace the ketchup in your inventory

With the increased availability of residential meat grinders from places like Cabela’s and Bass Pro comes the need to get the most out of these usefully pieces of equipment.

Here are eight tips for improving grinding.

1- Be sure to remove all the sliver-skin from the meat before grinding.
2- Make sure the meat is cut into small enough pieces to easily fit into the top of the grinder.
3- Start grinding by using large hole plate first, followed by smaller ones
4- Make sure the blade in the grinder is facing OUT towards the die plate (holes)
5- Periodically sharpen the grinder blade
6- Make sure the whole assembly of the grinder is good and snug. Too loose and the meat will not be cut, it’ll be smashed - too tight and the machine will struggle.
7- Make sure the meat is VERY cold when grinding. Placing it in the freezer for ten minutes or so will help achieve clean cuts when grinding.
8- Chill the grinder (head) before using. Put the assembly in the frig. or in an ice bath. (NOT THE MOTOR) This will help keep the meat cold and easier to cut.

Keep these tips in mind when you pull out that new grinder for those summer bbq’s
Good Luck

Eating is one of the few commonalities we ALL have as a species. Cuisines from all over the world contribute to our enjoyment. Here is one from our neighbors to the south. This versitle party favorite can be filled with limitless combinations of ingredients. Let your imagination go when creating YOUR special quesadilla. Its also a great way to utilize items that may be from a previous meal.

Makes 4 - 12 inch quesadillas

2 boneless pheasant breasts*
2 tsp Controlled Burn Chili Blend or other dried chili
1 tbsp olive oil
salt & pepper to taste

2 cups shredded cheese (jack, cheddar, mozzarella, fontina or even California goat cheese or a combination)
2 jalapenos, charred over an open flame, skin and seeds removed, diced fine
4 scallions, sliced fine
½ bunch cilantro, chopped

4 12 inch flour tortillas, (tomato, spinach, plain or smoked chili flavored)
2 tbsp soft butter or olive oil if grilling

Seasonal Filling options-

Sweet corn cut from the cob
Sautéed mushrooms
Sautéed cactus
Fire roasted red or yellow bell peppers
Smokey Black Beans

Place the pheasant breasts in a ziplock bag with the chili blend and olive oil. Allow to rest for one hour to over night. Quickly grill or pan fried the pheasant breasts, making sure to not over cook. As with any meat allow them to rest before cutting into thin strips. Lay the flour tortillas on a work surface and sprinkle a handful of the cheese blend on one half of the tortilla. Top the cheese with the pheasant strips. Be sure and spread the meat out evenly. Top that with whatever other garnish you have on hand, or just sprinkle with some scallions and cilantro. Fold the unfilled half over the filled half to form a half circle. Place some of the butter in a heated large skillet that will hold the tortillas. Spread the melted butter around the skillet and place the tortillas in the pan. Cook the quesadilla over medium heat to a golden brown. Remove to a sheet pan until all the quesadillas are done or cut into wedges and platter up. For larger groups you can always reheat the quesadillas in an oven (or grill) as needed. Garnish with splashes of ancho chili coulis, guacamole, sour cream and a sprinkle of additional herbs.

Of course this quesadilla can be done using just about any cooked meat or fish. They can also be grill, replace the butter with some olive oil tha is brushed on the tortillas before being cooked on a grill. Grilling them will give you a nice smoky flavor. Just be sure your fire is not too hot or the tortillas will burn.

South Western Garnishes -

WildEats Guacamole
This guacamole is a version that I serve up at The Bohemian Grove up in Northern California to rave reviews. I utilize a bit of mayonnaise to create an emulsion which helps to slow down the oxidation (discoloration) you get from avocados.

2 ripe Haas Avocados, split, seed removed and scooped from skin
2 cloves of fresh garlic peeled and minced
1 jalapeno, seeds removed and diced very fine (taste the diced jalapeno before added to the restr of the ingredients and only add what will suit your taste)
½ tsp freshly ground toasted cumin seeds **
¼ bunch cilantro chopped fine
½ med red onion, ¼ inch dice
2 tbsp mayonnaise
juice of 1 large or 2 small limes
Kosher or sea salt to taste

Place all the ingredients in a stainless or glass mixing bowl. Using a stiff wire whisk smash the avocado and blend the rest of the ingredients to a smooth consistency. The dip should be smooth and creamy. Add your salt and adjust the acid levels with additional lime juice if necessary. The actual amount of citrus juice from a given fruit (lemon, lime, orange etc) will vary with the season. Lay a piece of plastic wrap over the finished guacamole if you’re not going to use it right away. This guacamole will stay green for several days if made properly. Some discoloration may occur after being stored, simply scrap the very top layer off the guacamole before serving.

** TIP OF THE DAY- You should always try and buy whole spices. They store much better and retain their quality much longer. When you are ready to use them, lightly toast them in a hot oven or toss them in a sauté pan until lightly toasted. Allow them to cool slightly and then grind. This will give you spices that are bursting with flavor! You won’t believe the difference.

Ancho Chili Coulis
15 ancho chilis , toasted in a 350°F oven for a couple of minutes. Remove the stem and the seeds.
1 yellow onion diced
6 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tbsp freshly ground cumin (toasted)
1/2 tbsp dried oregano
1/4 c lemon juice
1/2 gal water
Kosher or sea salt to taste

½ cup virgin olive oil

Place all the ingredients except the olive oil in a non corrosive sauce pot. Cover and bring to a simmer. Remove the cover and continue to simmer for about 20 minutes. Allow the sauce to cool before you process it in a blender. While the mixture is blending slowly pour the oil in. Once blended smooth, pass it through a strainer. Adjust the seasonings, cool and store in an airtight container. Store for at least two weeks in the refrigeration. Use as a flavor enhancement to dishes or paint on plates for presentation. This may soon replace the ketchup in your inventory

Smoky Black Bean
Makes about 2 qts of cooked beans and freeze very well in zip-lock bags for later use.

2 cups dried black beans, picked through and rinsed 6 cups water (or stock)
1 large onion, cut into small dice

1 Chipotle (smoked dried Jalapeno) cut in half
1 tsp. garlic crushed
1/2 tsp. ground cumin (toasted)
1/2 tsp. dried oregano
or
1/2 cup WildEats Controlled Burn Chili blend

1/4 cup diced bacon cut into small pieces 1 Bay leaf

Hand pick through the beans to assure that there are no rocks or pebbles. Rinse the beans, and cover with cold water. Allow the beans to sit over night. This will release the gases that are too often related to dried legumes. Drain and rinse the beans, place all the ingredients into an appropriate pot with enough fresh water to cover by 2 times. Bring the water to a boil, clean the scum that forms on top and turn the heat down to low. Simmer for appr. 30 to 45 minutes or until just tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the cooking liquid. Do not season with salt before the beans are completely cooked, as salt will make the skins tough!

*** One word of caution, the heat factor of any chili resides in the seeds and veins so you can adjust the degree of heat by eliminating the seeds altogether.

It has been brought to my attention that there are still many out there that don’t quite understand what a RUB is. Hopefully this will clarify some of the mystery.

Dry “RUBS” are used to enhance the natural flavors of meat and fish. They are especially beneficial when used on the tender cuts of meat that will be cooked via a dry cooking method, (grilling, sautéing, roasting, broiling, pan roasting etc.) When you marinate a piece of meat in a liquid the meat absorbs a portion of that liquid, subsequently when you cook your meat some of that meat is being cooked with the STEAM generated from the absorbed liquid. In doing so you are actually steaming your hard-earned backstraps, ribeyes, top sirloins and top rounds? These superior cuts of meat are much better suited to be naturally caramelized which will accent their individual characteristics.

Liquid marinades actually dilute the natural flavors of meat and fish.

A DRY Rub allows the meat to be cooked with the intended DRY cooking method. The results enhance the natural flavors of the meat and fish, not cover up or dilute them.

Our WILDEATS Rubs are designed to compliment the natural flavors of all meat, and fish. Team these rubs with proper field handling, dry aging techniques, care regarding freezing, defrosting and packaging and you have a true formula for maximizing the culinary potential of ALL you wild harvests. Chef John McGannon has been educating his fellow outdoorsmen/women for the past 10 years preaching his techniques with tremendous results. In fact he has established an almost cult-like following, so much that Wildeats has recently released a full line of 40-ounce bulk containers of all our Rubs and Blends. All of these techniques and articles can be found @ www.wildeats.com/newsletter.

Our RUBS

How to use them - Simply rub the meat with the rub, as with salt and pepper the exact amount will vary with each person’s taste. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the piece of meat the more time you should allow for the rub to penetrate. You may want to brush your meat with olive oil before you apply the dry rub, this will help the seasonings to stick to the meat. For smaller items like steaks, breasts or fillets allow the rub to sit on the meat for about 30 minutes BEFORE you cook them. For larger cuts of meat like Tri-Tips, Roasts and Whole Birds rub the meat and leave in the refrigerator overnight. This will allow the flavors to penetrate the meat for maximum results. As for fish, just rub or sprinkle it on, allow to sit for 5 – 10 minutes and cook. You can grill, sauté, broil or bake with our rubs and if you enjoy frying meat or fish, simply mix our blends in with your flour or breading for that extra kick of flavor. All these blends can also be used for seasoning jerky, flavor enhancements for smoking cures, homemade sausages, as well as brines for all your white meats.
Currently these blends are available in the bulk 40 oz. Containers as well as a 6 oz. Package, The bulk containers will season 200 lbs. of meat and the 6 oz., 25 – 35 lbs.

Back in the “Good Ole Days,” a favorite question to cooks and chefs was, “so what’s your specialty?” Regional cuisine was what most people were exposed to and developed a comfort handling those products. Cuisine, as we became to know it was basically the products that were indiginious to a specific region of the world. These products were cooked using the 15 or so basic cooking techniques. This is what made up the various Cuisines. If you were from Southern Italy then your specialty was applying these cooking techniques to the products that were found in your area. With the globalization of today’s markets the Cuisine borders have been elimenated. We can get products from all over the world at any given time. What hasn’t changed is the techniques that we use on these products. The following list will shed some light on the differences of these techniques.

Just remember, it doesn’t matter if your sauteing in China, France or Romania its still sauteing! Use the right product with the right technique and you’ll get the results your looking for.

LIFE’S SHORT…EAT WELL

COOKING METHOD GLOSSARY

SAUTÉING Literally meaning “to jump” - To quickly cook commonly cut ingredients over high heat, using a minimum amount of oil. These pieces of food are generally smaller cuts and the whiter meats and fish are lightly coated with flour before cooking. This coating protects the flesh and locks in the moisture. Only the most tender cuts of meat are used for sautéing. Tougher vegetables that are sautéed should be blanched before hand.

PAN FRYING Medium or small sized items cooked in hot oil. These items are generally coated with flour, or a breading of sorts. The item to be pan fried is placed in the hot oil that will cover at least half the item. The temperature of the oil will range from very hot (400°F) to medium (325°F) depending on the size of the item to be fried. Generally, the smaller the piece the higher the temperature. Larger pieces of meat or fish that are pan fried might be finished in an oven. Items that have been pan fried should be removed to absorbent paper upon completion. This will assist in removing some of the excess oil.

ROASTING A cooking process that is done by means of dry heat, generally in an oven. The initial temperature to be somewhat high (375°F or above) to seal in the juices. The remainder of the cooking time should be set at a lower temperature (350°F or below) to reduce shrinkage and retain moisture. Roasting is usually done with large, tender cuts of meat and fish.

PAN ROASTING The same process as roasting, but deals with smaller cuts of fish and meat. This is done in a smaller pan, usually started on the stove and finished in the oven.

BROILING Open flame cookery, with the heat source coming from above. Usually items that are broiled are of the tender variety. Items to be broiled are generally basted with a cooking medium (butter, oil or sauce) and are placed in a pan or some other holding devise.

GRILLING The same as broiling but the heat source is from the bottom.

POACHING To simmer gently, usually in a flavored liquid, example, court boullion. Items to be poached must be similar in size, to ensure uniform doneness. Items to be poached must be completely submerged in the cooking liquid. Poaching can be done on a stove top or covered and placed in an oven.

BRAISING Items that are cooked by two different cooking methods first - a dry heat, either by roasting, or quick searing in a pan then - slowly, finishing in a flavored cooking liquid, that generally will be used as a sauce garnish when completed. Items to be braised are the tougher cuts of meat. This is a slow, longer cooking process, breaking down the tough tissue and fibers associated with these cuts of meat (shoulder, neck, shanks and portions of the legs). The exception would be for fish. Common items that are braised are; stews, pot roasts, ragouts, fricassee and blanquettes. Chile and Bolognaise (meat & tomato sauce) is also a form of braising!

STEAMING The process of engaging items with hot vapors of liquid, sometimes flavored liquid. Items can be suspended over vapors or placed in a sealed container with the cooking liquid. Steaming is a very nutritious method of cooking in that you don’t have to use any oils or fats. Vitamins and minerals are trapped in the item from the force of the steam.

DEEP FRYING Items are to be cooked in hot oil, (350° to 400°F). These items are to be submerged in the hot oil, which will quickly seal the item and lock in the internal juices. Fried items are to be dry and generally coated with a coating of crumbs or other dry ingredients. When frying, you should fry in small batches. This will allow the oil to remain hot. If you cook too many items at the same time, the temperature of the oil will drop and the items will absorb the oil, rendering them very greasy. When the oil begins to foam it is time to replace it with fresh oil. This is a sign that the oil has broken down and can no longer maintain the high temperature needed to lock in the flavors and juices of your product. When items are finished they should be removed to absorbent paper to remove the excess oil. Items to be breaded should be done at the last minute, so they won’t get soggy.

POELÉ Literally means to be cooked in its own juices. Items are cooked at a low temperature for a long period of time. Common items are; veal shoulder, capon, pheasant, grouse and quail. These are delicate items but, they can be on the tougher side; therefore, cooking them for a longer period of time would benefit the final results without overpowering their flavors.

STIR FRYING This is an Oriental technique that uses a single wok, over very high heat.Small amounts of fat or oils are used when stir frying. Products are cut into uniform size, this is to ensure even cooking doneness. Basically tender cuts of fish and meat are stir fried. Vegetables that are stir fried generally need to be blanched ahead of time.

BLANCHING A technique generally used to prepare items to be finished with another cooking technique; fried, stir fried, sautéed or grilled. It is a partial cooking of a product. You can blanch by poaching, steaming, grilling or frying, as long as you only cook the item partially. Items to be blanched would be green vegetables, french fries, sausages, etc.

ROTISSERIE The roasting method by means of direct fire or heat. Cooking over an open flame is a form of a rotisserie. Items need to be rotated over or around the heat source, in order to evenly disperse the cooking. Generally whole or larger cuts of fish and meat are cooked on a rotisserie. Sometimes it is necessary to add additional fat to certain items such as game, or fowl. This can be done by either larding or barding with beef or pork fat. Large pieces of fish can also be done on a rotisserie. In the good old days, cooking over the camp fire was the application of rotisserie cooking.

CONFIT is a generic term for various kinds of food that have been immersed in a substance for both flavor and preservation. Sealed and stored in a cool place, confit can last for several months. Confit is one of the oldest ways to preserve food, and is a speciality of southwestern France. Confit of goose and duck are usually prepared from the legs of the bird. The meat is salted with herbs, and slowly cooked submerged in its own rendered fat, in which it is then preserved by allowing it to cool and storing it in the fat. Turkey and pork may be treated similarly.

This past week those of us who love the outdoors, hunting, food and sharing our passion with the next generation lost a great friend. Bob Bergstrom - a devoted husband, father, mentor to young people who pursued their dreams to be a hunter and volunteer to many of our local Wildlife Conservation Organizations. Bob was the kind of person who was the first to get in line to help and donate his time to support many of the Wildlife Habitat Organizations here in the Bay Area. He was the lead volunteer for the Bay Area SCI Cubs program and a certified Hunter Safety Instructor - teaching our kids proper gun safety, respect for wildlife and becoming an honorable member of society. Bob was my right hand man in many of the donated culinary trips I offered to generate funding for wildlife over the years. Our Point Reyes Culinary Photo Safari and Culinary Adventure that I did for 13 years became our yearly joint venture. And it wouldn’t have been the same without him.

Bob was at his best when he was dressed in an orange vest, holding a shotgun, with a group of kids that he directed behind one of his beloved dogs. Many times it was my two young boys who followed his lead. Bob’s influence touched many people. Many of them were children, our future.

His wit, humor, infectious enthusiasm and passion for life are what most will remember about Bob. For me, it’ll be his commitment to share his love of being in the field and his passion for food. We shared many evenings in his camper discussing the finer points of cuisine while out on our little adventures. And, I loved getting the periodical emails seeking “that recipe you promised me.” It was easy to stimulate Bob’s love for cooking. He would often run home after one of our functions and get right to work on his new discoveries. He loved the little details which is what separates the “men from the boys” in any arena.

There’s much I’ll miss about Bob, He was a great friend.

The world could sure use more leaders like Bob Bergstrom.

We will miss him greatly.

I didn’t get a chance to share this recipe with Bob, but I’m sure he would have loved it.

It will forever be known as

“ Bob’s Honey Gastrique”

A “gastrique” is the classical term for a caramelized sweet and sour reduction that is normally added to a demi-glace or other base sauce. It’s traditionally used to make sauces that are often associated with duck and game. This sweet and sour base starts by caramelizing sugar until golden brown and then deglazing with either vinegar or citrus juice. It should have a good balance of acid and sweetness - team that with the bold flavors of game meat and you have complimentary attributes. Then if you add flavorings like ginger, peppercorns, junipers berries, citrus zest, sage, thyme, allspice and other refreshing tones you have a very rich yet enlightening combination.

This gastrique can be added to a brown sauce (demi-glace) or used by itself as a glaze. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of this sauce. It has loads of character and will add a touch of class to any preparation. Just like Bob.

“Bob’s Honey Gastrique”

Yields apr 10 oz.
Store in frig. Indefinitely

Drizzle on all wild game meats
The perfect balance of acid and sweetness

12 oz. red wine vinegar
4 oz. honey
4 oz. caberenet/zinfandel
peel of 1 orange
1 bay leaf
12 crushed juniper berries
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp kosher salt

Place in a stainless steel pot and reduce by ½, strain, cool and store in air tight container

Despite a looming winter storm watch, supporters and volunteers from around the country filed into Reno for the 24th Annual Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation National Convention. A four day series of Banquets, Auctions Appreciation Dinners, Concerts (Big & Rich and the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band) entertained and honored the loyal conservationist.

There was a host of seminars and guest speakers, such as Jim Zumbo “Mr. Elk Hunter”, Ron Dube, Master Guide and MC extraordinaire, Wayne Carlton, Host of Elk Country, Jim Horn, Elk Calling Expert, Jeff Smith, High Country Retrievers and yours truly conducted - Wild Game Cooking Seminars. The gathered crowds all went away with a bit more than what they came with.

There was also the annual National Elk Calling Competition. Over the years this event has really grown and watching these guys, girls and kids compete at the highest level is very inspiring. It didn’t matter that we were all encased in steel and concrete - the sounds of a bugling elk still makes my hair stand on end! I’m counting the days until September rolls around.

New President David Allen addressed the very large crowds at the banquets and provided a positive future for elk conservation and the habitat that they so greatly need. Our Column in BUGLE MAGAZINE, Carnivore’s Kitchen…Eating Wild got rave reviews and appreciation from the attendees that came by to say hello. We’re happy to be able to add a little spice and direction to our fellow meat chasers culinary experience.

This was my 12th Elk Camp and every year it’s such a great time to reacquaint with all the old friends we’ve made over the years. We’re very proud and grateful for the relationships that were started over a 1 ¼ ounce cup of venison or elk chili!

Looking forward to seeing you all again very soon. Safe travels and true shots…EAT WELL!